My Pangarchulla Trek: An Amazing but Challenging Himalayan Experience

Pangarchulla Peak. Ever since I found out that this was a trekkable peak, I had made up my mind that I had to stand atop it. At 53, it’s too late to go through mountaineering courses to be eligible for climbing but then peaks like Pangarchullar are the next best thing. I had already trekked to the Valley of flowers, Tungnath- Chandrashila, and Kedarkantha in a span of 6 months from July to December 2018. Several constraints did not permit a trip throughout 2019 until I finally decided; it had to be Pangarchulla and thankfully the dream was realized when my friend Ajay Rawat of Lammergeier Himalayan Experience  in Joshimath informed me I could be part of a group scheduled for November.

 As every trekking enthusiast understands that the thrill of negotiating a mountain ridge with a biting cold wind threatening to blow you off is the best feeling in the world. It may be tough but to once again walk on snow or to stand on a scenic viewpoint and watch the sunset on peaks just like this photograph of the sun setting on Dronagiri is an immaculate experience. I was finally going to be in the mountains again.

Pangarchulla trek, a brief description

The Pangarchulla peak derives its name from the Pangar fruit that grows in the region. From the summit, the valley looks like a chullar, (clay oven) hence the name Pangarchulla

Pangarchulla peak is a significant trekking destination as it is an introductory peak to the world of mountain climbing. Moreover, the variety of terrain throughout the route is exceptional and in winter especially, the endless fields of snow, narrow ridges and steep inclines can be challenging. It can really test your endurance where the snow is deep. Deciding on the trek to Pangarchulla depends on whether you want to experience the beauty of greenery or a non-technical climb cum snow trek in which case, winter, post 15^th November is the best time.

The route to Pangarchulla is dominated by the mighty Dronagiri and once you get to the first camp, be prepared for some spectacular views of the peak. En route to the last part of the climb will reward you with a panorama of peaks like Mana, Mandir, Hathi -Ghoda, Barmal, Lampak Massif, Dronagiri, Rataban, and Bethar-toli humbling you in their presence.

The Pangarchulla trek is classified as a difficult trek with the summit journey and back to base camp taking over a grueling 12 hours. It is not advisable for beginners without an adequate level of fitness wanting to experience a frolic in the snow. This is a seriously underestimated trek so if you haven’t done a trek before that, you may want to rethink a more moderate destination. That being said, for those who are fit and for trekking enthusiasts wanting to hike up their game, Pangarchulla is perfect.

29. 11. 2019 New Delhi -Haridwar

Haridwar

I reached Haridwar on 29^th November and after an overnight stay left for Joshimath the next morning. Accompanying me was my son Francis and if you are just two or three people, be sure to get a sumo for Joshimath not later than 8 am.  It costs around 600 per person form Hardwar to Joshimath with a journey time of approximately 9 hours.  It would be advisable to take the Lammergeier package that includes transport from Dehradun.

 30.11.2019-Joshimath

Joshimath

Joshimath was cold. If you are in Joshimath in winter, make sure you have dinner early as most eateries close sooner in winter and food can also, get pretty expensive when options are low. It was a nice feeling being back in Joshimath after a year, unfortunately, we missed the snowfall that occurred a week after we left.

Day 1-31.11.19:  Joshimath-(30mins drive)-Dhak village-(trek–4km)-Guiling -4hrs

Altitude 6,900 ft. (2,103 m) to 9,396 ft. (2,864 m);

The next morning was the first official day of the trek. I finally got to meet members of my group, Dipika and Sachin of Bikat Adventures, Akash Gaba, Bharat Daga, Sanjay Nair, Shreekanth Khandelwal, and Abhijeet. Our guide was the indomitable and very friendly Debu from Lammergeir Himalayan Experience. After a briefing by Sachin and Deepika, we set off to the first camp Guiling (2305 meters).

The trek from Kharchi or Dhak is a steep incline along a dirt trail that leads to Tugasi Village. It is a well-defined trail and the weather in November was beautiful. Dronagiri looks over you throughout the journey growing larger as you approach Tugasi along the way.  

We stopped twice, once beneath a rain shelter that made an excellent viewpoint for photographs, and then again at Tugasi village for some tea and snacks. There are two water sources along the way from Dhak to Guiling, so there is nothing to worry about although fill your bottles at Joshimath.

The best part of the Pangarchulla trek is both day 1 and 2 prepares you for the grueling summit day ahead. The route to Guiling camp may be steep in some areas, but you don’t really feel it given the nature of the terrain and the uplifting feeling of being among the mountains again. It is a healthy feeling.

The Guiling camp was free from the snow but if you are trekking in winter, you will need some heavy clothing right from the first camp itself because once the sun goes down, it can get biting cold. From Guiling you get some incredible views of the surrounding peaks dominated by Dronagiri now as large as life. You will also be seeing peaks like Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, and Kamet. On reaching, the nicest thing was a warm meal in the mess tent.

mess tent

Mt Dronagiri from Guiling camp

With Francis at Guiling Campsite, Mt Dronagiri in the background

Sunset on Dronagiri, Guiling camp 9396 ft

Sunset on Mt Dronagiri-7066 mts

 Day 2:  1.11.19 –Guiling to Lower Khullara (trek 2.5 km) -3-4 hrs

Altitude: 9,396 ft (2,864 m) to 11,125 ft (3,391 m);

Day 2 of the trek you will be trudging in snow across terrain dominated by oak forests along the way. While there is ample sunshine in the day time, the shade of the forest can make it cold too, so always make sure you wear the proper clothing with a sun cap, ear protection, and gloves. From day 2 you will also be made to wear gaiters and crampons.

The forest landscape is not as steep as the first day and was an enjoyable trek to Khullara camp. Fill your bottles at Guiling before leaving because although there are a few streams along the way, there is no assurity of water. Moreover, I personally believe that drinking water from sloping streams or falls that have water flowing over smooth rock surfaces and deep streams is safer than water from horizontal shallow streams.

Throughout the trek, the mountains will be playing hide and seek where Dronagiri as usual looks over you and you will also be seeing the Hathi Ghori peaks too. 

The Khullara campsite was on a clearing completely buried in deep snow. Trampling and flattening the area was a good warming workout too as we were shown how to construct a tent by Debu and Sachin. The Khullara campsite was completely covered with thick snow.

What makes the campsite endearing is the fact that a short 30-minute walk above the camp will give take you to an area full of small boulders and the intricate patterns of the snow-covered landscape is magical. From here too you will be gifted with panoramic views of the peaks like Mt Kamet and Rataban the sentinel that overlooks the valley of flowers finally comes into view
This is the beauty of the Pangarchulla trek where regardless of the summit, the views of mountains and the surrounding landscape is breathtaking.

Day 3: Summit day: Lower Khullara to Pangarchulla-12 km Time: 12 -14 hours

Altitude: 11,125 ft (3,391 m) to 15,069 ft (4,593 m) to 11,125 ft (3,391 m); 12 km

The day of reckoning, the longest day of the trek that will challenge you every step of the way. The summit day is when you are met with the true challenge of the Pangarchulla trek which makes you realize why it is considered a difficult trek. Trekking in deep snow makes it even tougher where the last leg of the trek leaves you exhausted and every step becomes an effort especially when it involves navigating the steep inclines.

The summit push requires crampons and gaiters. This we all put on after a brief meal at 1.30 am in the morning. What I find unusual is that most agencies give you a bowl of Maggi when it involves a summit day but that’s most probably because it is convenient, a source of carbs and it is bloody tasty. However, Maggi is also refined flour and that can be problematic for those with digestion issues that creates a risk of acidity.

One big piece of advice is to ensure you have a good supply of chocolates and if possible protein bars for instant energy as you are going to need it. Fill your water bottles in the camp as in winter; there are no water sources along the way. Further advice for anyone on a Pangarchulla trek is to EAT EARLY AND SLEEP EARLY. You need to be rested because of the arduous journey ahead.

Pangarchulla in the distance

The long trek to the summit seems an endless walk along blinding white snow-covered landscape. At times, negotiating the sides and slopes of narrow ridges can be scary for some. The cold is unbelievable and at every rest point all you can think of is where to find a rock to sit against for some respite from the wind that causes an unforgiving cold throughout but the worst was yet to come.

After walking for hours, the group gets slower. By now everyone is dog tired because it is no mean task to trudge in deep fresh snow.  It may have been much tougher than I expected but I would definitely not mind repeating it again because, in the challenge that the trek exerts upon you, there is an equal measure of thrill and determination that fills you with the urge to push on. Unfortunately just before we arrived on the last ridge or perhaps 1 .5 km from the summit, I began to experience stomach cramps and negotiating a steep incline before me seemed impossible. However, trekking besides strength requires sheer will and determination and I forced myself to move forward with baby steps that felt a mammoth feat at that moment.

Once we got atop a tiny small clearing on the last ridge, most of us felt it was impossible to go on. Having been in such situations before, I know that it isn’t strength or energy that takes you forward but only will power, however, I also felt that given the circumstances it was unwise to do so. It is not always the destination that is important but the experience and the journey that is important too. It isn’t always winning the race but the manner in which you made the effort that defines you.

Four of us including Shreekanth, Akash, Amit and myself decided to stay on the ridge while Francis, Abhijeet, Bharat, Deepika, and Sanjay (who returned back after 30 minutes because of AMS.) Debu and Sachin carried on. If the four of us thought we would get some rest on that tiny clearing, we were wrong; The wind became so furious that the cold well and truly rattled our bones. Being open on all sides and no rock wall for shelter, it was the coldest experience of our lives.

Thankfully some respite came with the sun rising by 6 am and it was then that we saw a sight that equaled being atop any summit. We were gifted with a 360 degree of peaks and perhaps this was our consolation prize. Almost every peak was visible Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Rataban, Dronagiri, Nilgiri and Hathi Ghoda peaks. It was amazing, and of course the highlight of our trek.

After about an hour and a half, huddled together, cold and freezing, we saw the others come into view in the distance below mini Pangarchulla. Once they reached us we got to know that Debu did not go on after reaching the base of the summit because the snow was too deep and completely un-negotiable.  2019 was the year when most of North India had very heavy snowfall including low hill stations that had never even seen snow.

We all spent a good 15 minutes on the ridge where some of us had a quick bite to eat courtesy Debu who had arranged packed lunches for all of us. As for me, I hardly ever eat while on a long trek. Perhaps it was the irresistible Maggi that led to my undoing. I recall that I had completed the Kedarkantha summit without eating anything. Food can slow you down, and a protein drink is a much better option. But, that’s just me.

The journey back t base camp was equally amazing because we finally got to see the route we had traversed in the dark. It was jaw-dropping because of some parts of the route were just narrow paths on the edges of slopes with enough space for one foot that was really something.

As I mentioned, even though we didn’t make the summit, the journey is remarkable because the return journey treated us to some mind-blowing landscapes that can be breathtaking. On the way just above the camp, Debu was kind enough to stop for photographs especially of Kamet which I had wanted to see.

Kamet 7768m

The area above Khullara camp is somewhat magical and will give you some brilliant shots of Dronagiri as you can see here. We reached camp by around 4.30 exhausted but full of an adventure of a lifetime.  It won’t be my last obviously as I have many more miles to go….

Day 4: Khullara to Joshimath via Dhak

The next day was a brisk lovely walk back to Dhak via the same Tugasi village where we stopped for tea and snacks. It was here that I met this beautiful little furball. The best part of any trek is meeting these mountain dogs who are extremely friendly and adorable.

From Dhak, we were taken to Joshimath by jeep but not before a brief stop to click photographs of the stunning Nanda Devi. Nanda Devi at 7816m (25,643 ft) is the second-highest mountain in India after Kanchenjunga.

Stunning Moon at daytime over Nanda Devi 7816 m

Further on we stopped again and this time Debu showed us something really astonishing. It was the hanuman rock and if you look at this photograph, you can see how it resembles Hanumanji, (and for my friends abroad, the Monkey God revered by Hindus in India also known as Bajrangbali) Now that was something pretty amazing. Coincidentally, it is interesting to know that according to Hinduism, Dronagiri is also the peak referred to in the Ramayana where Hanumanji is said to have lifted and carried on his shoulders to bring the life-saving herb Sanjivani, to treat Lakshman (the brother of Lord Ram) badly injured after fighting Ravan's brother Indrajit.

Hanuman Rock between Dhak and Joshimath

The Pangarchulla trek was tough no doubt but invigorating and exhilarating. I will be back once more because I just have to attempt that summit but till then, it is a big thank you for Lamergeir Himalayan Experience for making it a great adventure with no hiccups.

The Group

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Standing L-R: Sanjay, Akash, Bharat, Shreekanth, Amit, helpers, and cooks

Kneeling L-R: Andrew, Debu, Dipika, Sachin, Francis

Short itinerary for those interested: The Pangarchulla trek takes nothing less than 7 days from Delhi

Day 1. Delhi to Haridwar/Dehradun (take the 6am or 3.20 m train), overnight in Haridwar: 4hrs

Day 2. Haridwar/Dehradun to Joshimath by Tata sumo/bus (Haridwar railway station bus/taxi stand): 9/10 hours

Day 3. Joshimath-Dhak (drive)-Guiling Camp Trek (3-4 hrs)

Day 4. Guiling-Lower Khullara (3-4 hrs)

Day 5. Lower Khullara-Pangarchulla summit-Lower Khullara  (12-14 hrs)

Day 6. Khullara-Dhak-Joshimath

Day 7: Joshimath-Dehradun/Haridwar-(night train) - Delhi)

BESIDES REGULAR GEAR DON’T FORGET TO CARRY (compulsory in winter)

• Warm gloves, snow jacket, light jacket,
• Thermal wear, woolen socks 2 pairs
• Snowproof shoes, fleece
• 2 bottles, wet wipes toilet paper (you can’t imagine how important this is)
• small backpack for summit day
• head torch
• Trekking pole.

If you are keen on going on the Pangarchulla Trek then I suggest you get in touch with Lammergeier Himalayan Experience who provide really go services for this trek. The people are very friendly and will ensure you have an amazing time without burning a hole in your pocket. The address and contact numbers are given below.

Lammergeier Himlayan Experience
Near HotelNanda Devi, Joshimath
Ph: +918006404570 (contact Ajay Rawat)

Feel free to message me for further information: andrewalpin1@gmail.com

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